Toto TRIP LEVER FOR ST774S THU146#BN

THU146#BN is a TOTO toilet trip lever, the handle assembly that mounts through the tank wall and lifts the flush valve when you push it. It is a replacement part for the tank, not a complete flush valve or fill valve, so if the problem is a running toilet or a leaking flapper the trip lever is not the part that fixes it. Order it when the handle is broken, cracked at the arm, or the finish has failed.

No. TOTO trip levers are model specific. The arm length, the bend in the arm, and the threaded shank are cut for particular TOTO tanks, and a generic or another brand's lever often sits at the wrong angle or gives the wrong lift on the flapper. Match the TOTO tank model to the lever TOTO specifies for it rather than buying by appearance. The nut on most tank levers is also reverse threaded, so it backs off clockwise from inside the tank.

One finish only. The THU146#BN carries TOTO's #BN suffix, brushed nickel. If the other trim in the bath or across a property is polished chrome or matte black, this part will not match, and TOTO publishes the same lever body under different suffix codes for those finishes. For a fleet of units, matching the suffix is what keeps the handles consistent from room to room.

The trip lever ships as the handle and arm assembly with its mounting nut, which is everything needed to swap a broken handle. What it does not include is the flapper, the chain or strap, or the flush valve itself. If the chain is corroded or the flapper is warped, add those separately, since a new lever on a tired flapper still gives you a toilet that runs.

Left hand front mount, which is where TOTO puts the handle on the tanks this lever serves. Handing matters on a trip lever, since a left mount arm will not reach the flapper correctly from a right hand hole. Check which side the existing handle comes through the tank before ordering.

Yes, it is a hand tool job. Shut the supply, flush the tank down, unhook the chain from the old arm, back the retaining nut off inside the tank, pull the old lever out through the hole, and reverse the steps with the new one. The only adjustment that matters is chain slack, about half an inch, so the flapper seats fully but still lifts on a normal push. No soldering, no tank removal.