Deltana SCWB1025 Wood Screw, Solid Brass, #10 x 2-1/2"

At 2-1/2 inches, the Deltana SCWB1025 is long enough to pass through a hinge leaf, the jamb, and the shim space and bite into the framing behind it. That's the usual fix for a sagging door: swap one or two of the short factory screws in each hinge for a long one that reaches structure. It's solid brass, so treat it as a finish-matched fastener rather than a structural steel screw, and don't over-torque it going into hardwood.

Each. The unit of measure on the SCWB1025 is a single screw, so if you're replacing one screw per hinge across a run of doors, count the openings and multiply. Three hinges per door with one long screw in each is three per opening.

Deltana classes the SCWB1025 as residential. For an apartment interior door, a millwork detail, or a decorative pull on a wood door it's the right fastener. For a Grade 1 opening in a school, hospital, or hotel corridor, a brass screw is the weak link: the hardware itself will be steel-screwed to spec, and substituting brass into a high-cycle hinge or closer is not the move. Use it where appearance matters and load is modest.

Probably, yes. At 2-1/2 inches this is a wood screw meant to reach through trim or a jamb into framing. On a 1-3/8 inch interior door leaf it will blow through the far face, and it has no business in a hollow metal frame at all, which takes machine screws into tapped hinge reinforcement. If you're fastening surface hardware to a door leaf rather than into a stud, order a shorter screw in the same finish so the point stays inside the door.

Yes, pre-drill. Brass screws shear off in the hole far more readily than steel, and a #10 shank at 2-1/2 inches has a lot of thread engagement to fight. Drill a clearance hole through the piece being fastened and a smaller pilot into the substrate, and run it in with a hand driver rather than an impact. In hardwood, running a steel screw of the same size in first to cut the threads, then backing it out and following with the brass one, keeps the head from twisting off.

Nine finishes: PVD Polished Brass, Polished Brass, Antique Brass, Oil Rubbed Bronze, Brushed Nickel, Antique Nickel, Polished Chrome, Brushed Chrome, and Paint Black. That range is the point of the screw. If you have already specified a lockset, hinge, or pull in one of those finishes, you can order the screw to match instead of leaving a bright steel head sitting in the middle of finished hardware.

Solid brass, not plated steel. Both the material and the substrate are brass, so the finish sits on brass rather than on a steel core. Practically that means it will not rust-streak a painted or stained jamb the way a plated steel screw does once the plating gets nicked by a driver, and it can be polished back if the head gets marred. The trade-off is strength: brass is softer, so it wants a pilot hole.

That's what the finish range is for. The SCWB1025 is offered in the same finish vocabulary Deltana uses across its door hardware, including Oil Rubbed Bronze, Antique Brass, Brushed Nickel, and Polished Chrome, so a property manager standardizing a building can pull the finish code off the existing hinges or pulls and order screws to suit. Note that finishes with the same name from different manufacturers do not always tone identically, so matching within one brand is the safer play.

Both are offered on the SCWB1025 and they look alike out of the bag. PVD is a vacuum-deposited coating over the brass that resists tarnish and handling wear; plain polished brass is the bare metal, which will patina over time unless it's lacquered and kept clean. On an exterior door or a heavily handled entry, PVD holds its look longer. If the surrounding hardware is living brass and already toning down, the non-PVD screw ages with it instead of staying bright.