IDEAL Industries 30-102 PowerPlug® Luminaire Disconnect, Model 102, 2-Wire, Box of 1,000

Yes. The Model 102 PowerPlug disconnect is built to pass through a standard 1/2 in. knockout, so it drops into the fixture or junction box entry on a normal fluorescent or LED troffer without opening up the sheet metal. That is the whole point of the form factor: you feed the connected half through the knockout during ballast or driver replacement rather than cutting and re-splicing.

It is the 2-wire version, which handles the hot and neutral ballast leads. Use it where you only need to break the ungrounded and grounded conductors at the fixture. If the job calls for a third conductor (a switched leg or a separate dimming/ground conductor broken at the same point), the 2-wire 102 will not cover it and you need the 3-wire member of the PowerPlug family instead.

Both halves are touch-safe per UL 2459. That means an electrician can unplug the fixture half from the line half during maintenance without exposed live metal on either side, which is what the disconnect requirement at the luminaire is there to satisfy.

No tooling or twist-on connectors. The 102 uses IDEAL's patented push-in termination, so you strip the conductor and push it in and it locks. For a maintenance crew retrofitting a floor of troffers, that is the difference between a torqued splice at every fixture and a push at every fixture.

The 30-102 ships as a box of 1,000 sets. That is a contractor or distributor pack sized for a full lighting retrofit or new construction run, not a handful of fixtures, so it suits an electrical contractor wiring out a building or a distributor stocking the shelf.

It gives you a plug-and-socket break in the hot and neutral feeding the ballast or driver, right at the fixture. Without one, changing a ballast means killing the branch circuit and cutting splices; with the PowerPlug 102 in line, the tech pulls the two halves apart at the fixture and the connection is dead and touch-safe. It is the piece that makes ballast and driver swaps a one-person, no-lockout-of-the-whole-circuit job.

It breaks the hot and neutral line conductors, so it works the same way ahead of an LED driver as it does ahead of a fluorescent ballast, as long as you only need two conductors broken at the fixture. Check that your driver's line side is a simple hot/neutral pair; if the retrofit also brings a switched or control conductor to the same disconnect point, the 2-wire 102 is the wrong member of the family.