Metallics J1434T Anchor 1/4 x 3/4 Truss Hmmr Drv Ancr (Jar 100)

Drill the hole in the masonry or concrete, hold the fixture in place, drop the anchor through the fixture hole into the drilled hole, and drive the pin home with a hammer. Driving the pin expands the body against the hole wall. No screwdriver, no driver bit, no setting tool. That speed is the whole reason an electrician reaches for a drive anchor instead of a screw anchor when running strap, clips, or small boxes along a wall.

No. Drive anchors are permanent. Once the pin is hammered in, the body is expanded in the hole and there is no way to back it out cleanly, so removal usually means cutting or grinding the head off and drilling a new hole nearby. If the fixture has to come off for service, use a removable fastener such as a screw anchor instead of the J1434T.

Concrete, block, brick, and similar solid masonry. A drive anchor needs a drilled hole in solid base material for the expanded body to grip. It will not hold in drywall, and it is not the fastener for wood or steel framing, where a screw or self-drilling fastener is the right call.

Drill deeper than the anchor itself. With a 3/4 inch overall length, subtract the thickness of the fixture you are fastening to get your embedment, then add extra hole depth so dust and cuttings at the bottom do not stop the anchor from seating flush. If your fixture is much thicker than about 1/4 inch, step up to a longer drive anchor rather than this 3/4 inch length.

A truss head is wide and low profile, so it spreads bearing over a larger area than a flat or pan head and sits close to the surface. That matters when you are pinning thin strap, conduit clips, or sheet material to concrete and you need the head to hold the material without pulling through, while staying out of the way of whatever mounts over it.