Metallics JTS387HDG Anchor 3/8 x 7 Wedge Ancr Galv (Jar 25)

Wedge anchors drill 1:1 with the anchor diameter, so the JTS387HDG takes a 3/8 inch carbide hammer-drill bit in concrete. Drill the hole deeper than the planned embedment so the slug and dust fall clear, drop the anchor through the fixture, and tighten the nut to expand the clip against the hole wall. At 7 inches overall length this one is built for deep embedment plus a thick fixture or standoff.

No. Wedge anchors like the Metallics JTS387HDG are for solid poured concrete only. The expansion clip needs a consistent hole wall to grip, and hollow CMU or brick will crush or blow out the hole. For block walls use a sleeve anchor, a screw anchor rated for masonry, or a through-bolt with a backing plate.

Yes. The JTS387HDG is the galvanized version of the 3/8 x 7 wedge anchor, which is what you use for exterior slabs, loading docks, parking structures and damp interior areas where a plain carbon steel anchor would rust at the washer and nut. For fully corrosive or coastal service, stainless is the step up.

Each jar holds 25 anchors, and nuts and washers come assembled on wedge anchors, so there is nothing else to order to set them. You will need a 3/8 inch concrete bit, a hammer drill, and a wrench or impact to pull up the nut.

Length on a wedge anchor has to cover the thickness of what you are fastening plus the embedment into the concrete. The 3/8 x 7 is the one to grab when you are going through a thick base plate, grout bed, topping slab, sleeper or standoff. If you are mounting a thin strut bracket or conduit clamp flat to a slab, a shorter 3/8 anchor leaves less stud sticking up and less to cut off.

Not really. Once the nut pulls the cone into the expansion clip, the Metallics JTS387HDG is a permanent mechanical anchor. You can back the nut off and remove whatever is bolted down, but the stud stays in the concrete. To clear it, cut the stud flush or drive it below the surface and patch. Plan your layout before you set them.