Deltana G2DLP275 Grade 2 Drive-In-Latch, Passage/Privacy, 2-3/4" Backset

Yes. The G2DLP275 is built at a 2-3/4 inch backset, which is the deeper of the two standard bore locations on commercial openings (2-3/8 inch being the other). Measure from the edge of the door to the center of the 2-1/8 inch cross bore: if that comes to 2-3/4 inches, this is the right latch. If it measures 2-3/8, you need the shorter backset version instead, not this one.

A drive-in latch has no square faceplate and no screws. The latch body carries a round collar that gets driven straight into the 1-inch edge bore, so the door edge only needs a drilled hole, not a routed mortise. That is the whole reason to pick the G2DLP275: it goes into a prepped hole quickly and leaves a clean round bezel on the door edge. If your door already has a rectangular mortise cut for a faceplate latch, a drive-in will leave that pocket exposed and you want the faceplate style instead.

Passage and privacy latches are non-handed. The latchbolt on the G2DLP275 is a plain spring latch driven by the spindle, and it is reversible by rotating the bolt so the bevel faces the stop on either swing. Order one part for both hands of door.

No. The G2DLP275 is a passage/privacy latch only. It has a plain spring latchbolt with no deadlocking plunger, which is what a keyed entry or storeroom function needs to resist a credit card or shim attack. Use it behind a hall/closet passage set or a bed/bath privacy set. For a keyed lever or knob, order the deadlatch version made for that function.

Commercial. The G2DLP275 is a Grade 2 latch in stainless steel, which is the grade normally specified for light commercial and multi-family openings, offices, apartment interiors, and back-of-house doors. For a high-traffic main entrance or a hospital corridor where the spec calls out Grade 1, this is a step below what the drawing asks for.

The G2DLP275 is sold as a latch only, one each. Strike, knob or lever trim, and the privacy turn and release are separate. If you are replacing just a broken latch in an existing opening, that is all you need. If you are building a new opening, budget for the strike and the trim in the same order.

Yes, and that is the point of a combined passage/privacy latch. The same latch body sits behind a hall/closet passage set and behind a bed/bath privacy set; the privacy function comes from the turn button and emergency release in the trim, not from the latch. For a property manager standardizing interior openings, that means one latch part number on the shelf for both door types, as long as every one of them is bored at 2-3/4 inches.

Brushed stainless, US32D. Since the latch collar sits on the door edge and the rest of the body is buried, the finish only has to agree with your strike plate and hinges, not with the knob or lever trim. US32D pairs with the satin stainless and satin chrome trim that most commercial openings already run.

Stainless steel through the body and substrate is the reason to choose this one for a pool house, a laundry room, a coastal building, or any corridor that gets washed down. Plated steel latches rust at the bolt and start dragging in the strike; stainless does not. Note the function though, passage/privacy, so it belongs on a door where a keyed lock is not doing the securing.