ABUS 200/155 Solid Hasp with Staple, Zinc Plated, 17/32" Hole diameter

That's exactly the opening it's built for. The 200 series hasp is designed for doors that close flush, meaning the door leaf and the frame sit level with each other, which is the case where you can't simply hang a padlock through an existing shackle point. Yard gates, cellar doors, and similar flush wood or metal openings are the typical application. If your door leaf overlaps the frame or stands proud of it, a flush-mount hasp like this one won't lie flat across the joint and you want a different style.

The mounting screws sit concealed when the hasp is closed and locked, so there's almost no exposed surface for a pry bar or a driver to catch. That's the main security argument for this pattern over a cheap open-plate hasp, where the fasteners stay visible and can be backed out or sheared. The staple itself is hardened steel, so it resists cutting better than a plain mild steel loop.

It's a zinc plated steel hasp with corrosion protection, which is the normal specification for exterior gates, sheds, and cellar doors in a temperate climate. Zinc plating handles rain and humidity; it is not a marine or coastal finish, so on a salt-air site or a washdown area expect the plating to chalk and eventually rust at the edges, and plan to inspect it in the maintenance rotation.

It's specified as a commercial grade hasp rather than a residential one, built from steel with a hardened staple, so it holds up to the repeated daily cycling you get on a storage cage, a trash enclosure, or a mechanical yard gate. For a fleet of openings, the practical advantage is that the 200 hasp comes in several sizes in the same pattern, so you can keep one look and one padlock standard across doors of different widths and only vary the hasp length.

The 200 is one hasp pattern offered in a range of lengths, and the number after the slash identifies the size. This one is the 200/155. The construction, the hardened staple, the concealed screws, and the zinc plated steel finish are the same across the family, so the choice comes down to how much of the door-to-frame joint you need to span and how much flat mounting area you have on each side of it. Measure from the fixed frame across to the leaf before picking the length.

A hasp and padlock is the right call when the opening has no lock prep at all and you don't want to bore or mortise the leaf. The 200/155 screws to the face of the door and frame, spans the joint, and gives you a padlock point where there wasn't one. The tradeoff against a cylinder lock is key control: anyone with a bolt cutter and access to the padlock is past it, and the security level of the whole assembly is set by the padlock you hang on it, not by the hasp. Where you need keyed consistency with the rest of the building, a keyed lockset is the better route and the hasp is the fast, no-prep one.