Metallics JTS6414SSD Anchors 3/4 x 4-1/4 Wdg SS (Jar 20)

Drill 3/4 inch. A wedge anchor uses a carbide bit the same nominal diameter as the anchor, so the 3/4 x 4-1/4 anchor goes into a 3/4 inch hole drilled deeper than the embedment you need, with the dust blown out before setting. The 4-1/4 inch overall length covers the fixture thickness, nut and washer, plus embedment, so account for all of it when you set hole depth.

Yes. The JTS6414SSD is a stainless steel wedge anchor, which is what you want for exterior concrete, pool decks, wash-down areas, coastal sites and anywhere a zinc-plated carbon anchor would rust and stain the slab. Common uses are exterior strut and conduit racking, equipment pads, handrail bases and dock or parking structure work.

No. Wedge anchors are for solid, poured concrete only. The wedge clip expands against the sides of the hole and needs solid base material to grip, so in hollow block, brick or grout-filled cell work you should be using a sleeve anchor, a screw-type masonry anchor or a chemical adhesive anchor with a screen tube instead. Also keep the anchor away from the slab edge and from other anchors; a 3/4 inch anchor needs real spacing to develop any load.

Twenty anchors per jar, packed as a jar rather than a bulk box. Each one is a 3/4 x 4-1/4 stainless wedge anchor, and the nut and washer are part of the assembly. That count works for a single equipment pad or a handful of base plates; for a large layout plan on multiple jars.

Two reasons drive it on electrical work: exposure and dissimilar metals. Outdoors or in a damp vault, plated carbon anchors corrode and lose capacity, and rust bleeds down a concrete face. Stainless hardware like the JTS6414SSD also pairs better with stainless or aluminum strut and brackets. Inside a dry, conditioned building, a plated anchor is usually the spec; the stainless version is what you specify when the anchor will see water, chlorides or chemical wash-down.

The anchor arrives as a complete assembly with its nut and washer, so no separate hardware is needed. On the tool side you need a rotary hammer with a 3/4 inch carbide bit, a blow-out bulb or vacuum to clear the hole, and a torque wrench with a socket to pull the nut down. A 3/4 inch anchor is a big hole, so a hand drill will not get it done.