Metallics TS508 Anchors 5/8 X 8-1/2 Wedge Ancr St-zn (Box 10)

Wedge anchors are drilled to match the anchor diameter, so a 5/8 inch wedge anchor goes into a 5/8 inch hole drilled with a carbide bit in concrete. The hole has to go deeper than the embedment you want so drill dust can settle below the anchor. At 8-1/2 inches overall, the TS508 is a long anchor, so plan for a bit of that length to be taken up by the fixture thickness, nut and washer.

Wedge anchors are designed for solid, poured concrete. In hollow block or brick the expansion clip has nothing solid to bite into and can crack the face shell, so use a sleeve anchor or an epoxy anchor with a screen tube in masonry instead. For a 5/8 inch rod into concrete, the TS508 is the right class of fastener.

Length buys you two things: embedment depth in the concrete and stickout for whatever you are clamping. At 8-1/2 inches, the TS508 is sized for thick base plates, heavy equipment pads, structural standoffs, or cases where you are going through grout or a topping slab before you reach sound concrete. If your fixture is thin and you only need a few inches of embedment, a shorter 5/8 inch anchor leaves less thread hanging above the nut.

The TS508 is zinc plated steel, which is a coating for dry or occasionally damp interior conditions. Zinc plating gives limited corrosion protection and is not the choice for permanently wet, coastal, or chemically exposed locations, where stainless steel wedge anchors are used instead.

A 5/8 inch carbide-tipped hammer drill bit, a hammer to drive the anchor, and a wrench to tighten the nut. Wedge anchors come assembled with their nut and washer, so nothing extra is needed on the fastener side. Clean the hole out before setting the anchor, or the expansion clip will not seat properly.

Order Metallics TS508. That is the manufacturer part number for the 5/8 inch by 8-1/2 inch zinc plated steel wedge anchor, sold in boxes of 10.

No. Once a wedge anchor is driven, the expansion clip grips the side of the hole permanently. You can back the nut off and remove the fixture, but the anchor body stays in the concrete. For removal, the usual approach is to drive the anchor below the surface and patch over it, or cut it flush. If you expect to remove the fastener, a threaded insert or drop-in anchor is the better choice.